Hey, I'm impressed and I haven't even opened the menu. Enchanted, we looked on as the sun sunk behind the snow-capped Olympic Mountains. In the near distance, the increasingly cobalt waters of Sparkle Lake were surrounded by Vancouver Island's vernal green forests darkening to black.

Inside, one dines peacefully in grand, airy rooms. The Aerie's extremely well thought-out dining room is built along a series of tall bay windows. Space is divided by small walls, arches and pillars, giving everyone a view and crowding no one. A warm and professional staff, soft sounds from the pianist, and crisp white table linens and orchids all enhance the ambiance.

Vancouver Island's fertile abundance underlies the Aerie's entire cuisine. Christophe Letard, Aerie's Executive Chef, is trained in the traditional French gourmet fashion, but his style is dominated by the wonderful local produce and seafood surrounding him on Vancouver Island. "We have adopted a philosophy of ingredients first and recipes second," he says.

The greens, vegetables and fruit served at The Aerie are exquisite. My hat is off to Christophe and General Manager, Markus Greisser who work with the local farmers, supporting their efforts to grow exceptional produce, treat it properly and preserve its flavor. Nearby producers means produce is on the table at its most favorable peak. As Markus says, "anything else you get is at least 10 days to 2 weeks old by the time it arrives."

The Aerie's efforts, however, don't stop there. They also work with local fishing boats, fisheries, dairy farmers and meat producers to procure vittles of the highest quality. Working with other fine area restaurants, they can assure local producers of adequate markets for their extra care. The effort pays off.

This bounty is prepared inventively, deliciously and with style. The menus at the Aerie are varied, intriguing, and just plain fun. First, there are two fixed price tasting menus, one for vegetarians (ovo-lacto, no less) and one for the more inclusive gourmet. These menus can include a glass of wine carefully matched to each course. There is also a fixed price and a regular á la carte menu.

Christophe and his team meet daily when they know what will be available for the following night, planning the dishes and menus around what's in. Wonderful variations and new dishes are often the result of these sessions.

Myself, I love a tasting menu, but there are three of us and so we try three menus, taking a pass on 'all-veggies.' Fanciful dishes come waltzing out of the kitchen one after another. A little something amusing (Amuse Bouche) arrives in the form of house-cured salmon with arugula and a tart and tasty lemon vinaigrette as we contemplate our repast.

The most memorable appetizer, I would say is the sashimi-style marinated fresh Vancouver Island Qualicum Scallops (huge and sweet) with house-cured salmon, hot and sour pickled beets and a tamari dipping sauce. Although, the Morel mushroom and Asparagus Tart from the vegetarian menu which is served with spring mesclun and red wine mustard vinaigrette sauce is also a lovely combination. Then again, the quail legs confit and seared Quebec fois gras on a warm salad of marinated morel mushrooms and lambs lettuce with a cherry and thyme vinaigrette is full of delectable warm, woodsy flavors.

The stand-out soup is a spring-fennel and citrus butter bisque, a cream soup garnished with Dungeness crab and scallops. After devouring our most refreshing raspberry and sparkling wine granita, we are on to the entrees.

This venison isn't anything like the venison from my Montana friends' freezers. It's tender, succulent and full of flavor. The sweet and delicate Chemainus Crayfish Tails goes beautifully with the Herb Crusted Ling Cod Fillet. And as a rack of lamb aficionado, I'm in heaven--the lamb, mellow and juicy is perfectly prepared.

Now, if you can believe it, we're on to cheese and dessert. The cheese course, a savory Blue Rind aged Goats Milk fritter is served with sweet/tart rhubarb compote. The grand finale? Bernard Callebaut Chocolate, a rich, intense chocolate made here in BC, is made into a truffle tart covered with marinated strawberries and tarragon (oh, be still my beating heart!)

Just as we were being seated, a stylish foursome was descending from a Helicopter, having flown in from Seattle for dinner. At the time, it seemed a bit pretentious. By the time dinner was over, flying in for dinner at the Aerie from, oh, say--Tokyo, seemed like a sound idea.