Banyan Tree Bangkok's
Saffron

Saffron’s recipe for romance begins with a piano and trumpet playing Sinatra-era music, handfuls of white orchid sprays and one light-spangled Bangkok night. It blends in an urban luxe décor spiced by a bar of burnished copper, angular silvery crossbeams and panels of black glass studded with lights. On Banyan Tree Bangkok’s 59th floor, sit at a dining table or relax around a cocktail table and discover Saffron’s key ingredient—gracious service and nouveau Thai cuisine.

The first burst of flavor arrives unbidden, a chilled shrimp flavored with the traditional Thai ingredients of lemongrass and chilies. Arriving in an edible saucer carved from tropical fruit, it reveals Saffron’s style: up-to-the-minute panache based on Thai traditions.

To begin, I select the assortment of Thai appetizers. Arriving on green banana leaves woven into a plate and with a garland of roses and jasmine, it’s both floral arrangement and hors d'oeuvre. Crispy-fried shrimp look like tiny chickens and purple-colored dumplings look like flowers. Little parcels of minced chicken in wonton wrappers and deep-fried chicken in pandanus leaf (a shiny green leaf with an earthy flavor) complete the bouquet. Each delicacy has a distinct flavor which is spiked by a spicy-sweet, honey-pepper dipping sauce.

My shredded chicken with ground peanut salad lies in a quarter-moon stainless steel bowl. It’s all-at-once peppery, sweet, sour, crispy and pea-nutty. Served on crunchy cabbage, a nosegay of red and green lettuce with cilantro, enoki mushrooms, sunflower sprouts and carrot flowers complete this garden salad.

My entrée, duck in red curry sauce, is a knockout. Red curry sauce is one of Thai food’s essential sauces. Various chilies, garlic, onion, shrimp paste, lemon grass, galanga (Thai ginger) plus each chef’s secret ingredient are pounded into a paste and mixed with coconut milk.

Beautiful on saffron rice, Saffron’s duck curry is a surprise package of flavors, textures and colors. Perfectly fried slices of crispy duck combine with soft and sweet tiny whole eggplants—both cherry and quail egg-shaped. Hot red and green pepper slices contrast with sweet pineapple and lichees. Green leaves of Thai basil set off small oblong tomato. The sweet and creamy red curry sauce with its distinct kick brings together all the parts into a delectable, elegant whole.

Cold Thai noodles with coconut syrup, my waiter’s favorite dessert, are a pretty mix of white, green and pink rice noodles over chopped ice. It comes with a pitcher of sweeten coconut-milk syrup. It is, perhaps, an acquired taste. Next time, I’ll opt for one of the house-made tropical fruit sorbets.

I sit back with a Thai chai (spicy tea) and proof that Saffron’s recipe works—I’m smitten.

 By Kate Crawford  January, 2004

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