Bob Bacon, let me tell you right now--every rock you slept on was worth it!

Bacon, The Boulders' architect, began his design by setting up a tent and living with the land.  The result is a harmonious, tranquil, and sensual mingling of buildings and nature.

This is high Sonoran desert. Magnificent granite sculptures dominate the surreal landscape. These boulders change color as the desert day unfolds. Warm and golden sienna in the soft mornings, they become tinged with pinks and reds in the flame of the setting sun. High noon blazes on tawny rust-hued boulders in vivid contrast to deep blue skies.

Giant saguaros raise their arms in benediction over otherworldly paloverde trees with their pale green bark and minute leaves. The intense green of the skinny-armed ocotillo accents the grays, greens, and golds of cacti: barrel, cholla, chainlink, teddybear, hedgehog, pincushion, and prickly pear.

Bacon caught all this in his design. Buildings are of traditional pueblo style plaster and shaped to reflect and fit the contours of the land. Their straight lines, rounded edges and tawny color provide a near perfect counterpoint to the landscape.

Bacon summed up his design philosophy when someone asked him what he would have created on this land if his assignment had been a cathedral; "Nothing" he replied.

Little of the environment was disturbed while setting the village-like groups of casitas into the terrain. Large cacti were moved only when necessary and horticulturists planted additional natives creating a veritable desert botanical garden.

I arrived at this oasis with a friend who was full of purposeful get up and go, but I was full of languid layback and lounge. A recipe for trouble? Not at The Boulders. We were entertained, informed, pampered and challenged for four days and never left the resort.

Intrigued by the desert, I spent most of my time taking it in. It began just where my patio ended and sometimes made its way right onto the table. Perky, chirpy cactus wrens shared my breakfast. One hopped on my napkin and wiped his beak after each go at the butter. But of course--refined resorts have refined birds.

White-winged dove parents be-bopped up and down, up and down as they fed their squeakers. The littlest squeaker hadn't quite got his rhythm, I worried that his down and up wasn't getting him enough dinner.

A Yuma antelope squirrel, looking for all the world like a chipmunk, scampered around the spines of a pear cactus never once impaling itself. A pack rat came looking for something shiny to add to its sizable nest. Many, many desert cottontails cavorted about and an Anna's hummer stopped by for a sip from the red penstemon flowers. A cardinal perched on the paloverde tree for another red accent.

Desert oasis via lounge chair--my kind of place.

My friend, however, was out making sure she didn't gain back her hard earned winter weight loss. She was off before I got up for a walk in the cool of the desert morning. Then off to the Sonoran Spa for Total Body Conditioning and Cardio Combo workouts. Slowing a bit, she hit a Yoga class and finally coming to her senses indulged in a massage. She reports the spa specialty, a massage using smooth warm river rocks and scented oil, to be delightful.

The plethora of activities was such that a daily schedule was delivered each evening with the goodnight cookies. Golf carts have a cooling mists (true) and can haul one around the 36 holes set like a green mosaic into the muted desert. Tennis with pros is on plexi-cushioned courts. Desert jeep excursions, white water rafting trips, desert assaults (endurance building events), lake kayaking and biplane flights are on tap for the stalwart.

Too tame? Would a place named The Boulders neglect rock climbing? I think not. Experts lead clinics for beginners and climbs for the experienced, all guaranteed to pump adrenaline.

In the noonday sun, everybody, (I didn't even see a mad dog or Englishman) retreat to their casitas. These little homes are delightful; cool and spacious with hand-hewed wood-beamed ceilings, smoky beehive fireplaces, and smooth, cool adobe walls--no hard edges anywhere.

Niches with Indian relics, original regional art, and overstuffed distressed-leather chairs complement the adobe. Massive beds with lush Frette linens made for great nights and naps. And here is the bathroom my sister and I should have had growing up, most capacious with a separate shower and soaking tub, two sinks, lots of counter space, a walk-in closet and lighted vanity table. Dressing for dinner was fast, but not at all furious.

When it comes to food, my friend and I are in sync; we both relish a feast. These are not hard to come by at The Boulders. From burgers to fresh fish tacos, from steaks to seared halibut with shrimp and sweet corn pot stickers and from fresh fruit to house made cinnamon chocolate chip ice cream, the Boulders delivers. Executive chef Mary Nearn supervises no less than 80 chefs, sous chefs and cooks in six restaurants from the Bakery Caf¾ to the distinguished dining room, La Latilla, to achieve this cornucopia.

At The Boulders the heat of the summer begets hot off-season rates. I went in July to see if this was only for people who had already had too much sun. Nope, it was a great deal. The mornings were delightful and it cooled off in the evenings. Never mind it hovered around 95° while we were there and it's usually more like 110°. What's 15° between friends?

Everything is, of course, air-conditioned. When it's too hot midday, check out the Heard Museum North. Displays and a movie of Native cultures and art works were beautiful as well as fascinating. It's in El Pedregal which is The Boulders' boutique-filled plaza good for another couple hours of moseying. Or just nap, for goodness sake.

Summer is also monsoon season in Arizona. Our last night brought forth a sublime storm. Black clouds, pierced with dazzling streaks of silver lightening, charged over the steely skies, the thunder roared and rain pelted the desert floor. A real show stopper.

It also stopped our much anticipated Night Vision hike. We were to tramp around the desert checking out the nightlife. Using binocular-like night vision gear to amplify the available light up to 20,000 times rare desert sights were in the offing. Given the daytime extremes, desert life is peculiarly nocturnal. I really wanted to see what was out there--coyotes, javelina, deer and maybe even some night-blooming cacti. Geez, I'm still bummed out.

Only one possible thing can make up for this deprivation--I will be forced to book an even longer stay at The Boulders next summer. Oh the pity of it.

By Kate Crawford          September, 1999

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