Chitwa Chitwa Safari Lodge
             Sabi Sand Private Reserve
South Africa

Tucked into the knobthorn trees beyond the banks of Sabi Sand’s largest lake is an old hunting lodge. It has thick walls and a dense conical grass roof. It was built in the style of an African rondavel to beat the South African heat. A covered porch extends towards the lake. It’s easy to imagine big game hunters sitting here—sighting their next shot, consuming sundowners (drinks) and telling tall tales. That’s about how the porch is used today; it’s the main rendezvous of Chitwa Chitwa Safari Lodge—except it’s photo ops, not rifle shots the guests stalk.

Chitwa Chitwa built five more rondavels to house the Safari Lodge’s ten guests. Traditionally, the rondavels would form a circle. These, however, are placed on either side of the main lodge so each has a lake-view patio. Another welcome break with tradition is the swimming pool—divinely cool after a hot game drive.

Each guest rondavel is one large round room. They are surprisingly light and airy because of another break from tradition—French patio doors and ample windows. An eight-foot wall cuts three-quarters of the way across the room, leaving lots of space between it and the roof’s peak to move the breeze.

The sleeping area, on one side of the wall, faces the patio. Cleverly, where the wall ends, there is an entrance to the dressing and bathing area. Rustic, perhaps, compared to Chitwa Chitwa’s luxe Game Lodge chalets. But with cool sheets, two lusty showers—one inside, one out—and air-con, it’s a long way from bedrolls under a tarp.

The personable Nicky and Mike run the Safari Lodge much like a small inn. Nicky manages the Lodge and guides the staff. Mike staffs the bar and guides the guests. With a perpetual sunburn, red hair and gift of gab he could be straight from Dublin, but he’s native to these parts and knows them well. A knowledgeable guide, he leads two game drives every day, tracking along with the other Chitwa Chitwa guides to increase the sightings. On a walk around camp with Mike, I learned more about the low veld flora in one hour than I had in the previous three weeks.

Nicky and Mike preside over the group’s evening meals. Each dinner is like a delightful, delicious dinner party. Breakfast and lunch, hearty and tasty, are served buffet on the deck out by the lake.

Black storks fed in the Safari Lodge’s hippo-filled lake in the morning. Around lunchtime, an elephant came by to splash herself with mud. In the afternoon, an old giraffe stood under the shade of a tree. At dusk, an entire herd of water buffalo came for drinks.

Any erstwhile big game hunter would be impressed.

By Kate Crawford      July  2005

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE                           

Chitwa Chitwa Safari Lodge on the web.