The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn
Sonoma County, California
On a sunny day, the shadows of palms, redwoods and olive trees play on the dusty- peach walls of the long, low buildings of Fairmont’s Sonoma Mission Inn. Just inside the bellman’s gatehouse, one can imagine horses tied up to drink around the circular fountain of a Mexican hacienda. Within bubbling distance, an outdoor fireplace warms hearty late-afternoon wine drinkers on this California winter’s day. The less hearty are ensconced inside upon down sofas, enjoying the crackles and smells of the lobby’s wood-burning hearth.

Long before there was a Wine Country or a even a San Francisco, Native Americans enjoyed the hot mineral waters that bubble to the surface in what is now called Boyes Hot Springs. In 1840, an eccentric San Francisco doctor began peddling the waters as a cure. By the end of that century, Captain H. E. Boyes had bought the area around the springs and built a hotel. The moneyed arrived, by boat and by train to "take the waters."

In the 1920s, the original hotel was destroyed by fire, replaced with an accurate replica of a California Mission, and called The Sonoma Mission Inn. Dark during the depression, it was treasured by sailors and marines on "R & R" during World War II. After various incarnations, restorations, and expansions it is today a mission-style resort and spa in the heart of Sonoma’s Wine Country and just over an hour by car from San Francisco.

To get to my junior suite, I wind through gardens, over bridges and past small fountains. Then, I sink into a mission-style, leather chair and watch as the bellman lights a pressed log in my fireplace. The fire glows against the gently-colored Persian rugs that cover the Mexican-tiled floor. A big linen-draped, carved-wood, four-poster bed makes me feel like I am really sleeping somewhere. And the open Jacuzzi tub, between the bed and the sinks, makes me feel like I am really bathing somewhere.

Outside, the patio has that serene-garden sense, but I stay in by the fire on this drizzly day in my large, comfortable, lie-around room. The Fairmont definitely eases long rainy afternoons. Wrapped in their robe, I sip from their complimentary bottle of wine. Their magazines are above average and the paper is delivered to my door. Additionally, I signed up for the Fairmont President’s Club before I came and so have free access to in-room internet. Then, after a dreamy soak with the Inn’s signature apricot and cream bath gel, I head to the complimentary wine tasting.

On a nicer day, I might have joined the hike the Inn organizes for its guests each morning. Or signed up for the 11-mile bike tour, or more likely just wandered alone smelling the roses.

Or I might have wandered around Boyes Hot Springs. Called funky and worse by those who simply do not understand the joys of a not-yet Napa-nized rural California town—Church Mouse Thrift, Highway Tattoo, Mexican taquerias and all.

Note to Self: Return in May to see if San Francisco columnist Herb Caen was right when he said, "I understand heaven is a lot like Sonoma in the spring."

Kate Crawford               November 2006

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