HIGHLANDS INN
CARMEL, CALIFORNIA

People climb mountains to get the view I had from my bed at Highlands Inn. Rugged cliffs, wedged with Monterey pines, plunged down to small coves along the Big Sur. Waves exploded into smithereens of brilliant spume against the somber rocks. Gulls and an eagle silently crossed the horizon. Slowly the deep blues and whites of the ocean/sky turned to pinks, peaches and golds as the sun took its leave. A nearly full moon woke me in the wee hours and like a child waiting for Santa, I struggled to stay awake hoping to see it slide into the Pacific.

All afternoon, encased in a plethora of pillows and down, I checked the sea for whales' blows with the Inn's binoculars. No whales, but what a great excuse to stay put!

My Calvinist bones expect an onerous task to precede an occasion like this. But all I did was drive 125 stunning miles south of San Francisco and check into The Highlands Inn. A friend and I, out for a little R and R, were attracted by the Highland's winter price breaks--about half the high season rates.

Terraced amongst the pines and surrounded by gardens, our suite had two rooms, a regal bathroom, a fireplace, balcony, and small kitchen. Separated by shoji-like screens, the rooms could be configured at our whim. Oceanside was floor to ceiling glass, the fire was laid, and the fridge loaded with things healthy, bubbly, and giggly. A wide-angle disposable camera was among the goodies. The refined décor integrated natural fabrics, wood and stone with a Japanese quality of simplicity and serenity--the perfect counterpoint to rugged surroundings.

Between nature's rave performances, I managed to drag myself from the pillows for a frothy hydro-massage bath. Refreshed by the eucalyptus bath salts and lotion, I wrapped myself in a Highland's terrycloth robe and settled on the balcony to sundry my hair. Cloistered by the damp dark pines with the Pacific emblazoned before me, my thoughts turned to earlier times.

It's 1917 and I'm on my way to the newly opened Highland's Inn. My party leaves early from Monterey, the nearest town. We'll have a full day in the buggy tackling the 10 miles of rutted dirt road. Imagine our relief and delight when we finally arrive at Highlands--dusty, hot and with corsets pinching.

The Inn and nearby Carmel grew up together. For years, everyone shared the same party line. Eavesdropping on Highland's guests was surely a capital pastime for the early Carmelers. As a gathering place for artists (Ansel Adams, Jack London) and a hideaway for celebrities (Walt Disney, Judy Garland), I conjure up London's escapades and Disney's dispatching orders in Pluto-speak. Too bad individual lines were available by the time Highlands hosted the Madonna/Senn Penn honeymoon.

Always a Shangri-La for honeymooners, many still have their anniversaries at Highlands. When they stopped counting in 1966, Highlands had honored 25,000 wedding couples. One couple liked getting married here so much, they did it twice--hey, this is California.

Staff rumors have Marlon Brando staying in the presidential suite and eating nothing but liverwurst. Probably not the dumbest thing he's ever done, but passing on Highland's food is decidedly foolhardy. There is much to savor besides the sunset at Pacific's Edge, Highland's excellent restaurant. (Full review in Memorable Menus.)

The California Market serves lighter fare including a very satisfactory breakfast buffet. Contingent on vagaries of mood and weather, you can eat in by the pot-bellied stove or out on the deck--view included, of course. The Market also does picnics. Dining, sans masses, in your room is another possibility. Add flowers from the floral shop or a movie from the movie machine as the occasion demands.

Highland's main building clings to the very edge of the continent. Much of it is in the original, locally quarried, golden granite. Two massive fireplaces anchor either end of the capacious central room with cantilevered beams supporting the redwood sky lit ceiling. The décor is rustic luxury--overstuffed leather sofas and chairs, mission style oak furniture, original art, and six-foot bouquets of exotic flora. A telescope is set up to assist with whale (and/or people) watching and a Baby Grand is there for the playing.

Highlands has a pool, outdoor spa, and mountain bikes. They can make your reservations for golf or tennis, tell you where to tide pool or picnic, and suggest art galleries. Carmel is a quick and spectacular ride up Highway 1.

Don't miss the scenery and avoid Carmel's parking muddle by taking the Inn's shuttle.

Carmel always surprises me. It is a lovely small town, terrr--rib--ly chic and touristy. It has that alluring coastal California combination of year-round flowers, palms, and pines. Architecturally, it's contemporary hacienda and coastal redwood. And, my word, it does have the galleries and shopping--both the pricey and the too-priceless-for-words. (I was, however, unable to pass on a pair of biodegradable garden clogs and am pleased to report they have not yet biodegraded on my feet.)

Enjoy the extraordinary experience of being surrounding by thousands of butterflies at the Monarch Sanctuary in Pacific Heights (on Ridge Road off Lighthouse Avenue). Monarchs, in residence from November to early March, cover the redwood and eucalyptus trees and flit joyously about in their mating dances. Dancing doesn't start until the temperature warms up, so make this an afternoon affair.

17-Mile Drive with its $7.00 toll is the coastal route between Carmel and Monterey. It's a pretty spectacular drive and while you can see this kind of scenery further south free, if you stop for a meal at either The Lodge at Pebble Beach or The Inn at Spanish Bay, they refund your toll. We stopped at Pebble Beach and had a very good lunch and view at the Stillwater Bar and Grill.

This entire Big Sur coast invariably fulfills my travel fantasies of the spectacular, edge of the world genre--and at the Highland's you can view it all from your room, nay--your bed.

By Kate Crawford               February 2000 

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE

Check out the great pictures on The Highlands Inn web site.

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