Le Mas des Comtes de Provence
Tarascon, France

    CHARM, LUXURY & CONVIVIALITY

A first century legend features Tarasque, a dragon-like beast who terrorized the people of Tarascon before he was delivered to them by St. Martha. Had Le Mas des Comtes des Provence been available in her time, St. Martha could have charmed the beast with hospitality as we were during our travel respite there.

The mas (a traditional house or farm in Provence) is approached down an unpretentious lane just five minutes from Tarascon. In the courtyard, our host, Pierre Valo, warmly welcomed us. He was pleased that his website directions proved effective in helping us find his mas in the orchards.

Constructed in the traditional manner around a courtyard, the fifteenth century buildings of Mas des Comtes are set on twelfth century foundations. The residence was a hunting lodge for fifteenth century King Rene.

Currently there are two suites and six chambers, each decorated with period furnishings. Two parlors, allow space for conversation in front of the fireplace, table games or reading from the ample supply of books about the area. All this is set in the midst of spacious grounds featuring a swimming pool with snack bar, a half acre lawn plus the surrounding orchards. Thinking of his own children as well as his guests, Pierre provides outdoor play equipment and a ground floor apartment suitable for families with small children.

Fully seventy-five percent of Pierre’s guests come from beyond the borders of France. We met travelers from Japan, France and Belgium, as well as returning guests from Germany and Hungary. The tone of hospitality here encouraged relaxed conversation with our host and with other visitors.

Beyond the comfort of Mas des Comtes we found Provence easily accessible. Just across the Rhone is Beaucaire, with Avignon, Pont du Gard, Camargue, Nimes, Arles, and Saint-Remy easily accessible for day trips. In Tarascon itself are sites to fill a wanderer’s calendar for days -- Roy Rene Chateau (13^th century), Abbey of St. Michel de Frigolet (founded 1133), and the Souleiado Museum showing how the colorful printed cottons known as "Provencal fabrics" are made and used. (Souleiado means the "piercing of the sun" through the clouds, a trait recognized by Van Gogh and other artists who have worked in this area over the years.) Added doses of markets, festivals, concerts and street scenes that typify the towns of Provence, we found delightful settings for joyous experiences.

At the mas our spacious, second-floor room provided everything we could possibly want. The solid construction featuring massive beams demonstrated the craftsmanship of builders so many centuries ago. Small narrow northern windows face the mistrals that chill the winter visitor to Provence, but twenty-first century heating and air-conditioning keep visitors comfortable in all kinds of weather. The comfortable king-size bed featured wonderful lighting for reading in bed. Our bathroom, as large as some hotel rooms, had tumbled Italian marble floors and walls, and a ledge around the room that provided a convenient home for our toilet articles. Lighting over the bathroom mirror was exceptional. The deep pile towels and giant tub made for luxurious bathing.

Each morning’s lilting "bon jour" and gracious service made breakfast a pleasure. We ate hot croissants and buns just minutes from the baker’s oven. They came with freshly squeezed orange juice, a delicate yogurt and piping hot coffee. Exquisite jams were unlike any we had elsewhere in Provence.

Peaceful evenings began in one of the parlors as we joined other guests for aperitifs, tapenade, locally grown olives and nuts. After a time, we were summoned to dinner in the dining room. Its centuries old floor of native rock and tile is complemented by the lovely tapestry on the wall. Several seventeenth century sideboards set the stage for what was to come.

Each dinner was unique. One still vivid in my memory began with scallops, shrimp and asparagus accompanied by plentiful supplies of bread and wine. The local rabbit with vegetables and potatoes was my favorite. Next came fromage and greens. Finally pears in wine sauce, toasted almonds and chocolate sauce on vanilla ice cream topped off the meal. My wife especially enjoyed our meal the next evening which included duck in freshly-picked fig sauce. Without exception we ate locally grown vegetables, fruits and greens. The meals and service were elegant without being stuffy. An informal friendliness invited us to feel at home while we were being pampered.

Before opening Le Mas des Comtes in June of 2001, Pierre Valo spent intensive months of preparation. He is known in Tarascon as a man with vision and drive who gets things done. Now in concert with Elizabeth Ferriol, whose family ties in the area go back for generations, Pierre provides French country elegance that is tastefully and simply presented.

As we left Le Mas des Comtes, we observed again the pale grey-green shutters at the windows. They match the underside of leaves on the olive trees just beneath them. Another tasteful touch for this haven in old Provence.

By George Carter     January 2005

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE                           

Le Mas des Comtes on the web.