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  Riad Laïla
Marrakech
Morocco
Riad Laila's Courtyard

Staying at Riad Laïla feels like being in the lovely old home of a Marrakechi acquaintance who was called out of town, but left their gracious staff to tend to my needs. In the quiet end of the medina, Riad Laïla is a marvelous introduction to Marrakech—sans the hustle and tussle of the central square, Djemaa El Fna. The small square nearby is full of friendly neighbors and fresh with the smell of the mint-seller’s bundles.

The central courtyard, cool with the clear water of the cobalt-blue pool, is tiled in pale terracotta. White calla lilies, flame geraniums and all manner of flora grow lustily in the gardens around the palms, bananas, and oranges. Flamboyant pink bougainvillea scramble with lemon yellow trumpet vines up the high earthen walls. A covered promenade shelters the riads’ rooms from the sun and the rain.

Salon entranceAt one end of the courtyard, the doors of the main salon are so large, they have smaller doors within them for mere mortals to use. Inside, there’s a decorative, arched ceiling over a built-in divan smothered with pillows of silk. Carved and painted, both this ceiling and the doors offer enchanting examples of the jazz of Moroccan design—intricate geometric details follow one pattern then riff into another for endless hours of wistful reverie. On cool winter mornings and evenings the salon is warmed by a fire for our breakfasts and dinners.

A passageway leads to a second fountain-centered courtyard and a 'Douirya', a little private house. All Riad Laïla seven suites and guestrooms surround these two courtyards. My large, high-ceilinged, second-floor room faces the main courtyard. Carmine red-velvet arm chairs, a delicately carved armoire, Moroccan rugs and sweet pink roses make it most inviting. The bathroom abounds with the sensuous feel and curves of the traditional oiled and hand-rubbed plaster called tadelakt.

On sunny days, breakfast is served on the roof. It has several levels of terraces and is decked out with tables and chairs, flowers and vines. A desert tent protects those lounging on the sofa underneath from both the rays and rain.

Habiba manages Riad Laïla’s fun, young staff. My French is not up to getting to know them very well, but we get along splendidly none the less. Each morning, they inquire if I will be dining in that evening. My answer is often yes, as I love just going downstairs for dinner. Their offerings of typical Moroccan food—salads, tajines and crusty Moroccan bread—are excellent.

Riad Laïla is rated five lanterns by Riads au Maroc. I rate it a prince of a place.

By Kate Crawford        January  2003
Photos  by Ruth Anne Kocour

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE

Riad Laïla is one of Riads au Maroc rentals.  Riads au Maroc has a great web site, with lots of pictures and full descriptions of each of their properties. Below are the links to  other stories about Riads au Maroc.

A Prince of a Place, an article on Riads au Maroc. 

Riad Habib, Marrakech

Riad Cascades d’Ouzoud, Ouzoud

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