Hacienda El Santiscal
Arcos de la Frontera,
Spain 

An Authentic Andalucian Hacienda

Climbing the stairs to our room, I was intrigued by the design, color and patina of the tiles decorating the risers. What was so unusual about them? This question led to our exploration of the charm and history of this attractive Hacienda. We found that these 17^th century tiles are evidence of the care with which proprietress Francesca Gallarda guided restoration of this 15th century building. In the process she demonstrated a passion for the old property as well as for the comfort of her 21^st century guests. She loves this place set in the white hills of Andalucia near the jewel town of Arcos de la Frontera. Now, after twenty-seven years with several international hotel chains, Francesca thrives in her hands-on management responsibility here where generations of her family lived.

In centuries gone by, this Andalucian estate included the family home and multiple smaller houses (cortijos) for the peasants who worked the land. The property extended to the crest of surrounding hills—as far as the eye could see. In the traditional style, with a central courtyard, the Hacienda sits on an elevation above the surrounding fields where long-ago workers tilled the fields. Today’s crops are the same—wheat, beets, cotton and sunflowers.

Francesca tells of the challenges of refurbishing the historic building in compliance with regulations that forbid structural changes. She speaks of "all the love we have put into the restoration of this place. This is not really a business . . . more a way of life." We couldn’t miss her devotion to the Hacienda and its history.

There is nothing average or cookie-cutter here. Each of the three suites and nine rooms is distinctive. Colors vary from room to room —one is lavender, another yellow and blue, another red and yet another green. Returning guests frequently request their room by its wall color. Antique furniture is found in every room. Old interior shutters and narrow Arabic style windows enhance the light while controlling room temperature. Constant reminders of the historic nature of this unique inn are the original one meter thick walls, high ceilings and terra cotta flooring.

My wife and I enjoyed the spacious Summer Suite. Its second room, a balcony with chez lounge, table and chairs, had such privacy that we might have tried nude sunbathing without embarrassment. Our views included the swimming pool, the lake beyond and the hills in the distance. The matching Winter Suite has a small sitting room with a fireplace. A third suite features two bedrooms that will accommodate a family or two couples.

We were drawn to the large living room with historic photographs lining its walls. They provided glimpses of Francesca’s family and the history of the region. With other guests we could enjoy the entertainment center, read or play table games. The windows of the living room overlook the spacious lawn with lounge chairs, round pool and a path down to the Lake of Arcos. Just steps away the bar is decorated in Spanish equestrian style.

Round the clock services are designed to meet every need without being intrusive. Want a late-night snack or drink? Just ring for quick attention from staff who are within seconds of your door. Meals served on the terrace or in your room? Need information on local festivals or outdoor activities? Just ask.

Francesca is highly professional and well respected by her colleagues in the travel industry. An energetic and enthusiastic woman, she takes special delight in personally arranging for groups that book the entire Hacienda for business meetings, weddings or reunions. As with individual guests, these groups come primarily from beyond Spain’s borders.

Meals are served in a cheerful dining room overlooking the garden and countryside. The chef cooks for Hacienda guests only. Breakfast choices run the gamut from continental to buffet to Iberian—depending upon appetite.

In the late afternoon we made dinner reservations and selections from the extensive menu. This gave the chef time to prepare our customized meal along with the choices of other diners. Our palettes were ready for the promised "gastronomic experience" and we weren’t disappointed. The menu listed four starters, seven first courses, six meat dishes, five fish dishes and six desserts. My favorite starter was the white asparagus with salmon and creamed spinach. Then the veal loin in red pepper sauce was elegant as was the grilled king-prawn kebab. Quail soufflé with raisin sauce and Andalucian style baby beans with ham were tempting options. We chose regional wines to complement our meal. Sweet tooth in tact, my wife enjoyed her tiramisu dessert more than anything.

As the day drew to a close, we heard what seemed to be wind chimes. We discovered that the lilting tinkles weren’t wind chimes at all, rather the sound of hundreds of sheep and goats making their daily migration from the lake back to the sloping fields just beyond the Hacienda. The lead goats wore bells that became our evensong. We were mesmerized by this calming pastoral experience, as though transported back into an earlier century.

By George Carter    February  2005

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE                           

Hacienda El Santiscal on the web.