Perched in the bucket of a backhoe, dressed in faded Bahamian whites, Maria Schuster scanned the vista she hoped to see the rest of her life--the verdant Malahat mountains sloping down to the aptly named Spectacle Lake and backed by the distant Olympics.

Maria had fallen in love with Vancouver Island on a break from running her luxurious hotel in the Bahamas. She was now seeking the consummate place to retire and build one last resort (an oxymoron if I ever heard one).

Turned down on her first choice property, she was scouting the Malahat area, just North of Victoria, to find a substitute. She spotted a man working in a field and asked him about land for sale. He said he wasn't selling his 100 acres, but he'd show it to her. Hoisted up in his backhoe, Maria found herself face to face with her first choice property. Due to her advanced backhoe-bucketing skills, no doubt, the man relented and sold her some acreage.

Named for the high-mountain falcon's nest, The Aerie opened in 1991 as a simple 12 room Bed and Breakfast and soared in just a few years to one of North America's finest resorts. Maria along with her 5-star executive chef husband and her son, Markus Griesser, created this remarkable roost. Markus, arriving for a short visit during construction, was so taken with Vancouver Island, he stayed on as the Aerie's General Manager and most gracious host.

I can assure you no falcon ever had it this good. Visiting The Aerie this spring, I found it still wonderfully small at 22 rooms, yet sporting a full spa and indoor pool. Food to match the view, a European flair, and friendly service made me want to nestle down for the duration.

The land reminded the Austrian-born Maria so much of southern Europe, she designed her swan song as a Mediterranean-style mansion and built it right into and around its mountain. Markus says, "We could have bulldozed the mountain, but we decided to move with it instead." What evolved is an intriguing series of intertwined and turreted buildings with Spanish tile roofs winding their way through the gardens up the mountain. Each building quarters several rooms or suites. Most of the guestrooms are on several levels, producing architectural interest, outstanding views, and a feeling of sequestered privacy.

From the Jacuzzi in my suite, I had a falcon's-eye view of the sunset over Spectacle Lake. This multi-person soaking tub is in an alcove on the entry level, surrounded by pillars and illuminated by a crystal chandelier. A few steps down, the sitting room is furnished for nesting with its couch and chairs surrounding the gas fireplace. A few steps up, the king-size bed is covered with a down duvet and pillows, and encircled floor to ceiling by swags of lace. An idea place to munch the winner of this year's Best Turndown Goodie Award--a huge Callebaut chocolate shell. (Hoteliers take note--chocolate is what the heart desires!) Each room at the Aerie is different, mine was decorated in the style of Louis XV with curvilinear furniture, cream-colored silk brocade upholstery, slubbed silk curtains, and oriental rugs.

500 square feet balcony with glass windbreaks, bouquets of fresh flowers, a wet bar, and (hidden) entertainment center complete the scene. My entertainment, however, was sitting on the balcony, taking in the view and watching the denizens of Seattle arrive by helicopter for dinner. You too, could 'Fly with the Eagles,' an Aerie package which includes flying their guests by helicopter from Seattle or Vancouver to The Aerie for dinner and the night (both breakfasts are always included.)

If you land here in June, the first thing you'll notice are the pink, red and white azaleas blooming against their shiny green foliage. You may catch the whiff of early roses. Jubilant begonias, bold poppies and shy forget-me-nots add their charms to the gardens which are tucked in everywhere at the Aerie. There are small glens with benches for contemplation, bridges to lean on while staring into enigmatic ponds, and shaded gazebos for a read or a tryst. Kings and Queens stand ready for a match on their oversize outdoor chess board.

The more active can play tennis or swim and then kick back in a hot tub. Anybody still edgy? Head to the adjacent Aveda Health and Wellness Center, for heaven's sake. From facials to body masques and massage to make-up, renewal here is certain.

Hungry? Perfect. Dining at The Aerie is very important and very good. A rave review of their restaurant is in Memorable Menus.

The Aerie folks genuinely believe in giving the day a good start. So much so, they serve breakfast twice. First, an early morning elf leaves a basket of gooey rolls and hot coffee outside your door. Then when everyone is up and at 'em, it's on to the dining room for a proper breakfast. Lingering over gravlox-eggs Benedict with the sun streaming in and Sparkle Lake doing its thing, is, indeed, a fine way to start a day.

My day's first dilemma comes in ordering my picnic lunch--Sevruga Caviar and Blini and champagne or perhaps, the simpler Herb Focaccia Sandwich with Smoked Chinook, Onion Confit and Capers followed by House made Chocolate Truffles? Such difficulties! Once decided, The Aerie can assist in transport by selling me a back pack with a detachable wine cooler. Goodness!

Now, where exactly to picnic? Perhaps I shall head for a beach or the fjords, ferry to a Gulf Island, hike a mountain or the ocean's shore. There are rainforests, cider works, farms and ornamental gardens to explore. Sailing, scuba diving, golfing and fly-fishing are nearby. Victoria, 20 minutes down the road, has a fine museum. I choose none of these. I find a little corner of the garden, with a falcon's-eye view, and let my soul absorb my new-found aerie.