Our waiter brings a message from the kitchen: might we like to try a tasting menu? We might. An epicurean romp through this French-California brasserie followed, ending only when we cried uncle after one last bite of the Meyer lemon tart that accentuated the subtle flavor of this local citrus. Oh, no—here comes a chocolate cake exuding more gooey, warm chocolate from its insides. The superior local Schaeffen Berger dark chocolate at its richest is served with peanut brittle ice cream. Enough! we scream.

Sinking back into the brown velvet cushions of the Grand Cafe’s banquettes, we feel as if we’d dined in a turn-of-the-century Parisian brasserie if only these San Franciscans would dress the part, but there’s not a plumed hat in sight. Colossal columns and chandeliers to match, however, make us feel grand. Murals in the Toulouse-Lautrec mode hang on dark paneled walls above the jazzy art deco terrazzo floors. Bronze sculptures of droll rabbit-eared people climb towards the high ceiling and a distinguished-looking hedgehog make us smile.

Perhaps, we think, we should have had dessert first. Or, perhaps we should have just nibbled a few fresh oysters on the half shell and then gone on to dessert. It would, however, have meant missing the earthy, velvety foie gras with its hint of walnut and sweet woody flavor of the fig, port and shallot chutney or the wild mushrooms topped with black truffle sabayon. The salads were definitely refreshing. One had exceptional limey-green lettuce and sorrel dressing; the other had red cabbage, red onion and blood orange spiked with sherry-mustard dressing.

Entrees that we’re glad we didn’t miss were the sautéed skate (North Atlantic sting ray) tasting as one would imagine the North Atlantic might taste and arriving with comfort vegetables like bacon-larded cabbage. From the Pacific there was Hawaiian Wahu—a melt-in-your-mouth butterfish. Nearby Sonoma County kicked in with organic duck breast served rare and sliced thin. Wild rice cooked with the winter’s woodsy mushrooms and the root vegetable, salsify—mixed with dried cherries in a cherry brandy sauce—were good sides to the duck’s.

Chef Paul Arenstam, the creator of this bounty, is hot from his acclaim at San Francisco’s now defunct Belon. His training in classical French cuisine and his love of the warm California weather come together at Cafe Grand with food that echoes both Paris and San Francisco. It is not overly complicated—except the desserts, of course—and is hugely satisfying. Mixed with this dramatic setting and the genial service, we’ve unquestionably dined in the grand manner.

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