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The Peninsula Bangkok
Thailand

Peninsula Bangkok Exterior
The Peninsula Bangkok sweeps up from the far side of the Chao Phraya River in the shape of a wave. Their teak barges deliver guests from the commercial chaos and cacophony of Bangkok to The Peninsula’s enticing environs and quiet moments.

Riverside Mornings
It’s cool on the River Terrace. Steam wafts from rich coffee to wake the senses before a steamy Thai day dulls them again. The Bangkok Post, propped up on the sugar bowl, is surrounded by cool papaya, sweet passion fruit and heliotrope orchids. Attention is drawn from the news, whatever it is, to the river as it revs up for the commute.

Slick office workers, blue-uniformed school kids and saffron-robed monks crowd white commuter boats running the length of the river. The river’s semis—tugs pulling two, three or four big barges—control the center lanes. Carnival-colored long boats and buzzy water taxis flit diagonally with the cross-river traffic. The Pen’s barges fill with working ‘somebodies.’ Crossing the river to its waiting fleet of limos, they get on with the business of Bangkok, and the world.

Elevenses and Tea
Pen lobbyThose too wrapped up by river-watching to read the papers, can potato on the comfy couches tucked around The Pen’s two-storied, river-view lobby. Then, returning after hard day of Bangkok’s Wats and whatnots, jazz rises softly from the lobby’s grand piano to accompany late lunch, afternoon tea or drinks.

 

Poolside Snoozes
Pen poolThe Pen’s long turquoise pool, crossed by wooden bridges, flows down three tiers to the river. Waterfalls create a microenvironment sustaining poolside orchids, frangipani and palms. Carved wooden salas, looking like tiny peaked Thai houses, have bright yellow chaises, painted ceilings, electric fans and plenty of shade for a poolside snooze.

Stargazing Nightcaps
After dinner, when the River Terrace when it takes on a quiet demeanor, head for a romantic nightcap. Gaze at the stars. Watch the river barges, outlined in tiny white lights, ferry the evenings’ revelers across the river. Cognac in hand, drink in the magic.

The Room Cocoon
Pen Room detail
High above the Chao Phraya, the floor-to-ceiling windows of a Peninsula suite curve outward with the river’s bend for a big Bangkok view. A noble Asian elephant in traditional Thai Celadon stands tall at the suite’s entrance. Over the couch, a dreamy painting beckons one into ancient Thailand. A flick of a button sweeps the heavy raw silk curtains closed past an orchid-filled modern glass vase. Perfection is in the details.

In the bedroom, with Blackout draperies closed, temperature set to cool, and urban noise blocked by triple glazing, slip between silken sheets into a down-dreamy bed in the Pen’s sleeping-den bedroom.

The bathroom, where thick glazed glass separate lavatory functions, has duo sinks and a TV set into the wall at the foot of the long-soak tub. Lights that turn from make-up bright to lovey-dovey dim and a sound system complement whatever one does in the bath.

Quiet moments far from Bangkok’s maddening crowd are only a quick ferry-taxi-or-helicopter ride to The Pen.

 Kate Crawford      July  2006

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