The Racha Resort
Racha Yai
Thailand


You may not think it’s special to walk on water, but I did.

It started with a soothing boat ride as the sky turn orchid, melon and pink over Thailand’s darkening sea. Then, just thirty-five minutes after leaving Phuket’s Chalong pier, we steamed into a quintessential U-shaped cove of the tiny island, Racha Yai. Pulling up to a dock with no piers—no pillars at all disturb this bay’s seabed—where a floating platoon path leads to the virginal white-sand beach. Walking thus on the water, guests arrive at The Racha.

Quietude. That’s the theme at The Racha. Its snowy villas are settled amongst exuberant green, a fine counterpoint to the sea’s opulent turquoise makes. One is surrounded by simple beauty, luxurious basics and nearly always within site of the sea. Tensions evaporate within hours.

On sunny days, when the ocean and sky compete for the best of the blues, adrenaline-charged guests are out snorkeling and diving, biking and playing tennis. The rest of us, if not at the Anumba spa, soak in the infinity pool and watch it disappear into the sea. Or we have our feet stuck in the sands of the secluded, but not private beach.

But it was the stormy day that I loved the best. Propped amongst my bed’s plethora of pillows, I watch the palms bow to the tropical winds. The ink-dark waves were tossed to froth and the sweet, syncopate sound of rain drummed on my villa’s roof. Ahhhh, the wonder of having nothing to do but look. Well, there was one other thing to do—and I did it, too. Under the palms of the outdoor portion of my bathroom, I showered in the rain.

Then it was time for Fire. The Fire Grill, a pizza-pasta place at lunchtime, morphs into an elegant dining room overlooking the bay. Settling into the flame-red ultra suede chairs, I reviewed the menu. Nothing prosaic here either, even the steak is Tournedos ‘Rossini’, an Argentinean tenderloin with foie gras, baby vegetables and bordelaise sauce.

I started with the Gorgonzola Spring Rolls. Tiny spring rolls filled with mild gorgonzola presented on a greens combination of peppery rocket and sweet young lettuce with sun-dried tomatoes and red peppers set off with Modena Dressing with balsamic vinegar from Italy.

For my main, I ordered Pork on Chili Risotto. It was described as slowly poached, then seared pork belly served on chili risotto with a red onion tempura and a Merlot reduction. Transporting me a couple of thousand miles, it had the flavor of a great North Carolina barbeque elevated to haute cuisine. Some might say the chili overwhelms the delicate flavors of a risotto, but with this combo, who cares? The pork, tied in a roll, and wrapped with just a tiny bit of fat arrives sliced, is full of flavor while still tender, and was terrific with the risotto. The red onion tempura, not a bad notion, was too wilted to crack a crunch.

When not dining, one can eat or snack in the air-conditioned Earth Café or on Thai and seafood at the über beach shack, Sunset Beach. Evenings, the lovely open library becomes the hot Ice Bar, complete with live music. The night I was there a Thai trio played Mexican Mariachi music—go figure.

But a midnight dip in the sea put me about as far away as you can get from The Big Mango, Bangkok—and still be in Thailand.

 Kate Crawford     December 2007

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