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I had not been to Hong Kong in over 10 years and was unsure what to expect since control of the British colony passed to China in 1997.  I'm pleased to report that Hong Kong is as vibrant and intoxicating as ever.   And The Peninsula is still one of the world's finest hotels, if not the finest.

We arrived at the new Chek Lap Kok International Airport on a lovely morning.  The new airport is a remarkably different introduction to Hong Kong compared to the old Kai Tak airport.  For starters, you no longer have to endure the infamous Kai Tak landing approach which followed the contours of the hills of Kowloon past high rise apartment building windows with tenant's drying laundry blowing in the breeze (some of you old Red Baron aviation aficionados will probably bemoan this).  The new airport is a marked improvement over the old airport - it is larger, very modern and offers a much safer operating environment.

We were met by a Peninsula hotel representative as we exited Customs and escorted to our waiting hotel Rolls Royce for the 40 minute ride to the hotel.  The drive into Hong Kong is over a new, modern expressway across a spectacular suspension bridge connecting Lantau Island to the mainland.

At the hotel we were greeted at the front door by the Duty Manager and Sian Griffiths, Director of Public Relations, who personally escorted us to our suite.  Ms. Griffiths is a delightful lady who was an impeccable host and provided us useful information on the hotel and Hong Kong.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Peninsula's rooms and suites offer elegant styling along with comfort.  I'll have to try and control my enthusiasm for this incredible hotel, but I can't resist - our suite was on the 24th floor of the new tower extension which opened in 1995 with much fanfare with royalty and entertainment stars in attendance.  This new 30 story addition adds 132 rooms and suites to the existing 168 rooms in the original and completely remodeled six story building.

Our suite was marvelous - beautifully decorated in a classic European style with subtle Oriental  influences reflected in the fabrics and some furniture pieces.  My wife, who has interior design experience, could not stop talking about the quality of the furniture and fabrics used in the room.

Walking through the door at end of the suite living room led to the corner bedroom with a sweeping view of the harbor and Hong Kong Island.

It's difficult to describe the view from The Peninsula harbor-side suites and rooms, but let me try.  On our first day in Hong Kong we left our suite in mid-afternoon to look at the hotel shops and decided to have an early dinner in the hotel's Chesa Restaurant.  The dinner was delightful and we returned to our room after dark.  We were chatting as we entered the foyer and were stopped in our speech and tracks by the view before us - a spectacular visual feast of Victoria Harbor and Hong Kong Island.  Many of the buildings on Hong Kong Island are lit by a dazzling array of ever-changing neon lights and signs along with all the lit ships and boats crossing Victoria Harbor.  It's a  combination arcade game and Christmas tree - one might be tempted to say it was kitschy and gaudy, yet you can't take your eyes from the view - it's breathtaking!  This picture was obviously taken during the day, but it will give you a sense of what comes after dark.

The next evening we entertained my wife's son, his new bride and several of their friends.  They arrived before dark and I told them about the light show to come.  Of course, they all reacted very coolly and detached as they are all dot com and high tech industry professionals.  Within the hour they were all seated on the floor with their elbows on the window sill staring in silence at the unfolding show.  They stayed in that position for over 30 minutes absorbing what has to be the most magnificent urban view in the world!

The hotel's spacious rooms (460 - 500 square feet) are all equally well decorated and comfortable.  The furniture is a tasteful mix of western and Oriental styles.  Bathrooms are in marble with two wash basins, a large and luxurious bathtub, separate shower and private toilet.

With the completion of the new tower and the complete remodel of the original hotel, The Peninsula prides itself on the use of "unobtrusive technology".  Being a technology buff myself, I really got turned on by all the easy to use features.  The tech goodies abound and include:

• Silent fax machines with a personal number for your use during your stay.
• New Northern Telecom ISDN-ready telephones.  Each phone has two lines with "hand free" capabilities.  A pull-out tray in the phone is set to display the guest's home time and can be used to check time in other cities and time zones.
• Bedside panels allowing each guest to control the lighting, radio, television, air conditioning and curtains at the touch of a button.  Each panel has a small earphone socket allowing a guest to view television or listen to radio without disturbing a sleeping partner.  The panel also allows a guest to display their "Do Not Disturb" sign, summon a valet and notifies you on receipt of telephone calls and faxes.  Let's face it - you could stay in bed your entire stay!

RESTAURANTS

The Peninsula has a number of outstanding restaurants featuring a variety of cuisines.  The decor, service and food quality in each is excellent.

• The Lobby – The world famous Lobby is the place to be seen as travelers and Hong Kong locals have met here for afternoon tea since the hotel opened.  The Lobby also offers all-day dining and is the perfect place to meet friends and business associates.  Fortunately hotel guest have seating priority as there is frequently a queue waiting for a  table.

• The Verandah – This is the hotel’s more casual all-day dining room.  We had breakfast here each morning and enjoyed the open, bright environment.

• Chesa – A small and intimate restaurant in a rustic Swiss motif - this is the place to go if you love raclette and fondue.  My wife and I dined here one evening and the fondue was delightful, but a caution - one serving will suffice for two.

• Spring Moon – A Chinese restaurant reminiscent of a 1928-style dining room offering Cantonese specialties.  A diem sum lunch is a real delight here and you can also sample 20 Chinese teas at the unique tea counter.

• Imasa – This contemporary Japanese restaurant serves traditional Japanese cuisine including sashimi and sushi made from fresh ingredients flown in daily from Japan.

• Gaddi's – This is the hotel’s supreme social setting for those most important occasions.  A private dining room is available for business groups and special occasions.  Gaddi's has an impeccable reputation and the decor is stunning.  The menu features gourmet French cuisine and a magnificent wine list.

• Felix – This rooftop restaurant was created by the world-famous avant-garde French designer, Philippe Starck.  The restaurant serves a Pacific rim cuisine and offers breathtaking views of Victoria Harbor and Hong Kong Island.

THE PENINSULA SPA

The Peninsula Spa is a marvelous facility on the 7th and 8th floors of the hotel.  It includes a swimming pool, gymnasium, hairdresser, beauty salon, sun terrace and a locker area with whirlpools, saunas, steam rooms and massage services.

The swimming pool is particularly inviting - it's 60 feet in length and designed on a Roman theme with a waterfall flowing into the pool (it immediately reminded me and my wife of the Roman pool at The Hearst Castle in San Simeon, California).  The pool opens onto the sun terrace with the ever present incredible view of Victoria Harbor and Hong Kong Island.

The swimming pool, gymnasium, sun terrace and locker areas are available free to hotel guest.  Of course, massage and beauty salon services are for a fee.

SIGHTSEEING AND SHOPPING IN HONG KONG

Sightseeing in Hong Kong is a delight.  We simply enjoyed walking the streets, observing the crowds amid the constant hustle and bustle.  Granted you have to put yourself into the proper frame of mind to enjoy this.  Shopping is ever present and seems to never cease - shopaholics will find themselves in heaven.  Prices in Hong Kong are not the value they were some years ago, but values are to be found if one has the patience and endurance to shop, compare and bargain.

We found the best prices and choices in Chinese goods in the Chinese Arts and Crafts shops near the hotel.  The shops are located in the Star House building just across from the Star Ferry Terminal at the foot of Canton Road.

Sunday morning my wife and I decided to take the tram ride to the top of Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island.  We walked across the street from The Peninsula to the Star Ferry Terminal and took the ferry to the Central Terminal on Hong Kong Island - a five minute ride and the ferries leave every 15 minutes or so.  As we walked through the terminals, the streets and the open spaces around buildings on the route to the tram terminal we had to weave our way through hundreds, if not thousands, of young women in groups of five to ten.  It was obvious they were there for the day with their shopping and picnic baskets.  I suspected the reason, but asked the hotel Concierge about it upon our return.

He explained they were the amahs - the mostly Filipino maids working in Hong Kong homes.  Sunday was their day off and with no where to go, as park space in Hong Kong is limited, they use what open space there is to enjoy the day.  The Filipinos are the largest Hong Kong minority with a population of about 150,000.  It seems a shame space is at such a premium that the amahs have such few alternatives, but I'm told this is preferable to the life awaiting most of them in the Philippines.

The tram ride to Victoria Peak and the view looking back at Kowloon was the high point (apologies for the poor pun) of this excursion.  The restaurant and shops at the top are a disappointment - strictly tourist stuff.  Still the trip is worth it for the walk to the tram, the tram ride and view; however, go early in the morning as the tram queue is intolerable from late morning on.

Alas, our brief stay at The Peninsula came to an end too soon.  Even if you travel to Hong Kong on a tight budget, plan to stay one night in The Peninsula in a harbor view room.  It will be an experience you will not soon forget!

By Waights Taylor, April 2000

LINKS WITH ATTITUDE

• hongkong.peninsula.com is the website for The Peninsula hotels Hong Kong.