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In the 17th century people here dressed all in black, but on the inside their clothes were lined with fur," quoth René. Amsterdam is a bit like that still - one has to seek underneath its easy exterior to uncover its riches. I was lucky; one sentence in a guide book led me to Artifex and the Netherlands’ own culture-vulture, René W.Chr. Dessing.

Still the real show was at street level. As we traipsed along behind Guss on the narrow cobble streets and among the 17th century buildings, we were both intrigued and ill at ease. At street level, rows of 8 X 10 glass-fronted cubicles that looked like large shadow boxes all lined up in a row. Most of their interiors were covered with antiseptic-looking white tile, and generally a small bed occupied one corner. In these little rooms, prostitutes lounged, primped and waited for customers. The floor-length curtains were drawn only when the women worked. 

Restaurant Claes Claesz is in the Jordaan’s maze of narrow streets, elfin old-world houses, houseboat-filled canals, artsy shops and raucous street markets. In the seventeenth century, this was Amsterdam’s working class neighborhood. Today’s Jordaan includes a large measure of artists and intellectuals.

On my way to dinner at Café Roux, I discovered a corner of Amsterdam’s past. Passing under a honey-colored stone arch, I emerged into the courtyard of the once a 15th century convent. Standing on bricks, hundreds of years old, I’m surrounded by a gothic edifice covered with a classical baroque façade addition. The convent now poses as Amsterdam’s Grand Hotel and dinner at Café Roux is just one of her charms. 

Years of international travel left the Schoenmakers with a plethora of ideas, prejudices and gripes. They put them all to use, perfecting each detail, in this first floor retreat with room for only two couples. Piet and Janneke are sophisticated, interesting and fun and have captured just those qualities in their Inn. Spaarne 8 beguiles. It is as stylish and luxurious as it is relaxed and fun.