The all-windows dining room juts out over the very edge of the Pacific. One looks through the tops of ancient Monterey pines to the Big Sur below--precisely the setting one travels to find. Need I mention that sunset is THE perfect time to dine?

Pacific's Edge is part of the equally delightful Highlands Inn. You may have your cocktails or cognac in their immense stone walled, double fireplace sitting room or out on the decks with the sea breeze.

Inside has its own, but rightfully understated drama--crackling fires, rock hewn walls, fine linens, intriguing and colorful glass plates and genuinely friendly actors.

Pacific's Edge food miraculously manages to live up to this setting. Executive Chef Jeff Rogers maximizes the bounty of California refined by the techniques of the French. Think artful renditions of sea, woods and sunny farms.

The menu, but of course, is grounded on the Pacific's largess and its inland larder--not a meager beginning. Jeff can see from his kitchen window the boat trolling for tonight's appetizer of Seared Monterey Spot Prawns with Crispy Vegetable Salad and Black Truffle Vinaigrette. The Captain calls Jeff by cell phone to report the catch.

I started with a cold grilled leek and grated portobello mushroom salad. These woody flavors work beautifully together. Served on a bed of yukon potatoes and sharp frilly greens, it was drizzled with Black Truffle vinaigrette--just the right touch.

You can see from the menu the seafood here is too, too. However, I had an inside scoop from the bartender that the lamb was tdf (to die for). And indeed, it was: perfectly grilled, and done up with black olive-rosemary jus. Jeff has a contract with a Colorado ranch for what may just be the best lamb in the country. Creamy polenta and finely diced ratatouille combine for particularly pleasing side dishes.

For dessert I had the supreme chocolate lover's indulgence, a just baked dense chocolate cake with warm chocolate ganache oozing from its center. Chocolate ice cream rounded out the flavors. They call it Molten Cake. Decidedly decadent.

The wine list has extraordinary depth with over 700 choices. It starts with the best of Monterey and stretches around the wine world. Pacific's Edge was ranked 8^th in the world by Wine Spectator readers' poll.

Annually, Highland's Inn hosts the International Food and Wine festival, an event bringing together great chefs and great eaters. I'd happily volunteer for the latter if they every find themselves short (fat chance.) This is a tremendous undertaking for the Chef as well as an annual opportunity to refresh the kitchen's thinking and skills.

Thus keeping Pacific's Edge on the leading edge of superior restaurants.